Cool Tones vs. Warm Tones: How to Choose the Right Undertones for Each Client

The right undertones is essential to achieving a look that complements your client’s natural features and enhances their overall appearance. Whether you’re creating a vibrant blonde, a rich brunette, or a fiery red, understanding how cool and warm tones interact with your client’s skin tone can make all the difference.

Here’s a guide to help you master the art of selecting the right undertones for each client, ensuring they leave your chair looking and feeling their best.

1. Understanding Cool and Warm Tones

Before diving into how to choose undertones, it’s important to understand the difference between cool and warm tones:

• Cool Tones: These tones have an ashy, blue, or violet base, resulting in shades like icy platinum blonde, smoky brunette, and cool chestnut. Cool tones are often used to counteract unwanted warmth or brassy hues in hair.

• Warm Tones: Warm tones are characterized by golden, copper, or red undertones. Shades like honey blonde, caramel brunette, and warm auburn fall into this category. Warm tones can add brightness and warmth to the overall look.

2. Identifying Your Client’s Skin Undertone

The key to choosing the right hair undertones is to first identify your client’s skin undertone. There are three main types:

• Cool Undertones: Clients with cool undertones often have fair or pinkish skin with blue or purple veins visible on the underside of their wrists. Cool undertones pair well with cooler hair shades, which can balance out any redness or coolness in the skin.

• Warm Undertones: Clients with warm undertones typically have golden or olive skin with greenish veins. These clients tend to tan easily and look great in warm colors like reds, golds, and rich browns.

• Neutral Undertones: Neutral undertones are a blend of cool and warm. These clients can pull off a wider range of shades and are generally more flexible with their hair color choices.

Tip: A quick way to identify undertones is to hold a piece of gold and a piece of silver jewelry near your client’s face. If gold jewelry looks more flattering, they likely have warm undertones; if silver looks better, they probably have cool undertones.

3. Choosing Cool or Warm Tones Based on Skin Tone

Once you’ve identified your client’s skin undertone, the next step is to choose a hair color that complements it. Here’s a breakdown of which tones work best for each type:

• Cool Undertones:
  Clients with cool undertones look best with hair colors that also have cool bases. This helps create harmony between the skin and hair, avoiding clashes that could accentuate any redness or discoloration in the complexion. Recommended shades include:

  • Icy Blonde: Think platinum or silver blonde with hints of blue or violet.
  • Ash Brown: A rich, cool-toned brown that eliminates warmth.
  • Cool Burgundy: A deep, purple-toned red that complements cooler skin tones.

• Warm Undertones:
  Clients with warm undertones benefit from shades that enhance the natural warmth in their skin. Warm tones create a radiant, sun-kissed look that brings out the best in golden and olive skin tones. Recommended shades include:

  • Honey Blonde: A golden blonde that adds warmth and brightness.
  • Caramel Brunette: A rich brown with golden or bronze undertones.
  • Copper Red: A vibrant red with a warm, orange base.

• Neutral Undertones:
  Clients with neutral undertones have the flexibility to explore both cool and warm shades. For these clients, you can focus on their personal preferences and lifestyle. A few versatile shades include:

  • Soft Balayage: A mix of warm and cool highlights that create a blended, natural look.
  • Rich Chocolate Brown: A deep brown with neutral undertones that complements most skin tones.
  • Golden Bronde: A combination of blonde and brown tones with subtle warm highlights.

4. Considering Eye Color

Eye color can also play a role in choosing the right undertones. Complementing your client’s eye color with the right hair color can make their features pop and create a more cohesive look:

• Blue or Grey Eyes: Cool shades like ashy blonde, light mocha, or icy brunette can highlight blue or grey eyes beautifully.
• Green or Hazel Eyes: Warm colors like golden blonde, chestnut, or copper red can bring out the richness in green or hazel eyes.
• Brown Eyes: Neutral and warm tones, such as deep caramel or mahogany, can enhance the depth of brown eyes.

5. Client Preferences and Lifestyle

While undertones and eye color are essential considerations, always factor in your client’s personal preferences and lifestyle. A client with warm undertones might prefer an edgier, cooler hair color, or a client with cool undertones might be drawn to warm shades for a seasonal change. Consider their maintenance preferences as well; cooler tones may require more upkeep to avoid brassiness, while warm tones may fade differently over time.

6. Tips for a Seamless Consultation

Consultations are crucial to selecting the right undertones. Here’s how to navigate this part of the process:

• Use Visual Aids: Show your client a variety of color swatches and pictures to help them visualize the different tones. This can be particularly helpful when explaining the difference between warm and cool shades.
• Discuss Maintenance: Different tones require different maintenance routines. For example, cool blondes may need toners to keep brassiness at bay, while warm brunettes might need gloss treatments to keep the color vibrant.
• Address Concerns: If your client has concerns about how a particular shade might look, reassure them by showing examples of similar skin tones with the chosen color. You can also discuss temporary solutions like semi-permanent dyes or glosses to help them ease into a new look.

7. When to Mix Cool and Warm Tones

Sometimes, the most flattering hair color isn’t purely warm or cool. Blending both cool and warm tones can create a balanced look that suits clients with mixed undertones or those who want a dynamic color effect. For example:

• Bronde Highlights: A combination of blonde and brown highlights that mix warm honey tones with cool beige hues for a natural sun-kissed effect.
• Smoky Rose: A trendy blend of cool pink with warm rose gold, perfect for clients looking for something playful yet sophisticated.
• Warm Ash: A neutral blend of ashy blonde with subtle hints of warmth, ideal for clients who want an ashy look without going too icy.

The right undertones for your clients requires an understanding of color theory, skin tones, and your client’s preferences to create a look that feels cohesive and complementary. Remember, the goal isn’t just to create a beautiful color—it’s to create a color that makes your client feel confident, radiant, and authentically themselves.