Developer Strength vs. Developer Timing: Why Volume Alone Doesn’t Tell the Whole Story

For many stylists, developer volume is one of the first things we learn to associate with lightening and lifting power—10 vol for deposit, 20 for gray coverage, 30 for extra lift, 40 for high-lift blonding. But behind the chair, it’s rarely that simple. Understanding how developer strength interacts with processing time, hair texture, porosity, and overall hair health is what separates formula mixers from true color formulators.

The Redken dedicated developer for Shades EQ Gloss is approximately a 7-volume hydrogen peroxide developer. Specifically formulated to maintain an acidic pH and stabilize viscosity

What Volume Really Measures

Developer “volume” refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the product—essentially, how aggressively it opens the cuticle and oxidizes pigment. But higher volume doesn’t just mean more power. It means faster oxidation and less control. And fast isn’t always better.

• 10 Volume: Gentle, slow processing—ideal for toners, deposits, and fragile hair

• 20 Volume: Standard for gray coverage, permanent color, and controlled lift

• 30 Volume: Stronger lift, but faster pH shift—more risk of uneven tone on porous areas

• 40 Volume: Maximum expansion, but limited processing time before damage or swelling sets in

The Scruples Pure Oxi developers are fully stabilized to provide long-lasting potency and ensure optimal haircolor results

Timing Is a Variable, Not a Guarantee

Processing time is not interchangeable across volumes. Two developers may theoretically reach the same lift level—but the speed of oxidation changes how evenly and predictably that lift develops.

For example:

• 30 vol for 15 minutes ≠ 20 vol for 25 minutes

• Faster doesn’t always equal deeper; it can simply mean less predictable results, especially on porous or pre-lightened hair

High Volume Isn’t Always High Lift

When the cuticle is too compromised—or the underlying pigment is resistant—jumping to 40 volume often creates:

• Hot roots and banding

• Overprocessed ends

• Uneven tone due to rapid oxidation without proper penetration

In many cases, controlled lift with longer timing (like 20 vol for 45 minutes) gives more consistent and even results, especially on longer or uneven canvas hair.

The 360 Developer Cream Activators have a complete range of oxidants in creamy emulsion (6-10-20-30-40 vol) enriched with Coconut Oil and the fragrance of Cotton Candy.

Use Developer Like a Tool, Not a Shortcut

Here’s how to approach developer choice strategically:

• Assess porosity first—Fine, porous hair will lift faster than coarse, resistant strands, regardless of volume

• Consider tone goals—Rapid lift can blow past ideal undertones, especially in blonding

• Account for previous color history—Oxidative color vs. direct dye makes a difference in how the developer behaves

• Respect the manufacturer's timing—Every color line is formulated differently, and overextension or underprocessing alters expected outcomes

Formulating Smarter: Developer + Time + Hair History

Instead of asking, “What volume do I need?” ask:

• How much lift do I actually want?

• How even is my starting canvas?

• What does the condition of the hair allow?

• What’s the timing window that keeps the hair healthy?

When you view developer and time as partners, not interchangeable levers, you gain control over your color results—and the trust that your work won’t just look good in the salon, but hold up weeks later.

Volume isn’t the whole formula. It’s just one piece. True color mastery means respecting timing, porosity, hair integrity, and tone development just as much as the number on the bottle. Stylists who approach developers with intention—not habit—consistently create better, healthier, more predictable results. And that’s what keeps clients coming back.